Friday, January 11, 2013

Back to Basics 2013 - Week 2: Gelish Troubleshooting, Tips, Tricks, and More!

Last week, we discussed Gelish Application Instructions. For those of you who have been performing Gelish for a while now, I am sure Application is old news. You have your system, your routine, and it is working for you....most of the time. Sometimes, a client throws you a curveball, though. If you have experienced this, keep reading! Pure Spa Direct has collected some of the most common questions concerning Gelish, and answered them below!

Gelish Features a wide array of colors - there is something for everyone in this collection!

Gelish Troubleshooting
Issue: Some of my clients are experiencing polish shrinkage around the cuticle.
Answer:  Excess oil on the nail bed will cause shrinkage. Make sure you wipe the nails with Gelish Cleanser, and apply at least 1 coat of Gelish pH Bond prior to applying the Gelish Base Coat.
Question: After curing, my clients are experiencing bubbling in their polish.
Answer: Bubbling is often cause when Gelish is applied too thickly - apply the THINNEST COATS possible! Also, VERY IMPORTANT: Make sure you are NOT SHAKING your Gelish products. If you shake your Gelish, it will bubble!
PRO TIP: Nail techs, you MUST resist the urge of making the first coat look perfect and opaque. The first coat should be streaky with some transparency. The second coat will smooth out the appearance. If desired, you can add a third, very light coat to create richer color and coverage.
NOTE: If polish is applied too thickly, the client may feel a burning sensation during curing! Thin coats are the key!

Question: Gelish is not curing within the times advertised... Sometimes I need to leave my clients hand in the lamp for 10 minutes. Is the product defective?
Remove the blue film before using!
Answer: If you are using Gelish’s LED Curing Lamp - make SURE you removed the BLUE sticker / film on the reflective, slide out tray inside the Gelish LED lamp. This blue film peels of easily, in one piece, revealing a highly reflective surface area needed for proper curing. Discard blue film. 
Remember, Gelish’s formula was designed to quickly cure in their LED lamp, but it can be properly cured in UV lamps by closely following these guidelines:
  • If using a UV Lamp, make sure that is has at least 36 watts. If it is less than 36 watts, you will need to upgrade.
  • UV lights are filled with gases that degrade over time. This is the natural course for UV bulbs, but the degradation increases with elevated temperatures. Even something simple like dust on the bulbs reflects heat back into the bulbs and accelerates the degradation. Every time you turn on your UV lamp, the bulbs are slowly becoming less powerful. To ensure that your clients’ nails are being properly cured every single time, you should replace your bulbs every 2 months. If you wait any longer, curing times will drastically increase while the curing quality will drastically decrease.

Question: My clients’ nails are not lasting for 21 days. Only a few days in, they are experiencing chipping, peeling, and breaking. What gives?
Answer: There are several recommendations to prevent your clients’ nails from chipping, peeling, or breaking:
  1. Remember the old adage: “Treat your nails as jewels, NOT tools.” This is especially important for clients transitioning from acrylic nails to gel-polish nails. Natural nails with gel-polish on them will not withstand the same beating an acrylic name would.
  2. Follow all of the steps above regarding curing. The first step to ensure that the polish stays on your clients’ nails is to make sure that they are being cured properly.
  3. DO NOT perform a wet manicure before applying the Gelish. If the nail is waterlogged before the base coat is applied, the nail will shrink once it dries out, and the Gelish will peel within days. Do a dry nail prep instead! If you must do a wet manicure, apply and cure the base coat first. Doing so will seal off the nail from absorbing any more moisture, and protect the integrity of the Gelish application.
  4. Make sure to cap the free edge of the nail for EVERY coat. Capping the free edge first will prevent a bulb from forming at the edge of the nail.
  5. Maintain a tiny free margin around the cuticle and sidewall areas.
  6. Encourage your clients to apply Gelish Nourish cuticle oil daily, to keep their nails flexible and strong.
  7. It is always a good practice to wear gloves when working with your hands, especially if you are working with any chemicals.
  8. Clients who naturally have nails that tend to peel and break might need to have Gelish Structure applied to give the nail an extra layer of strength.

Question: Do I need to shake Gelish a lot like Shellac? If I don’t shake it, won’t it become thick?
Answer: No! Never, ever shake your Gelish product. The polish is good to go the moment you open the bottle. In fact, shaking can be detrimental and cause the product to become filled with bubbles.
PRO TIP: Think of Gelish as Jell-O. Would you never shake Jell-O? Never... shaking would ruin it. Same with Gelish! Just open and enjoy! 

Question: Will Gelish cause white spots on the nail like other brands?
Answer: No! One of the best features about Gelish is that it will protect the natural nail. Other brands are formulated with lacquer, which by its nature, removes the moisture and nutrients from the nail. Gelish IS NOT formulated with lacquer, but is, instead, a pigmented gel. Gel merely sits on top of the nail and essentially protects the nail. It is still strongly recommended that your clients use Nourish cuticle oil daily. 

Question: How do I market / advertise Gelish in my Salon / Spa?
Answer: If you are a Pure Spa Direct Gelish Customer, you will receive a complimentary, exclusive edition poster for your establishment that is guaranteed to create interest and bookings! 

Professional Application Tips & Tricks:
  • Use the Gelish Cleanser. It has been specifically formulated to work with the Gelish polishes for optimum shine that lasts.
  • When removing the shine from the nail, bring the buffer up and down the nail, lengthwise, in a vertical motion. If you buff the nail from side to side, it is easy to miss the tips and edges. Removing the shine from the nail plate ensures better adhering of the base coat.
  • DO NOT soak nails or have the nails exposed to water for any amount of time before the application and curing of the base coat.
  • Do not over-cure the base coat. Leave it in the lamp for only the allotted time – 10 Seconds in the LED Lamp or 1 Minute in a 36 Watt UV Lamp. Over-curing can make the removal process significantly more difficult.
  • Make sure that you do the dry cleaning of the nail after applying the Foundation Gel or the Structure Gel. It will ensure that the color coat better adheres to the product underneath it.
  • Apply the product in very, very thin layers. If desired, you can do 3 color coats, but make sure each coat is extremely thin.
  • ALWAYS cap the free edge with every layer applied, even with the base coat. This can mean the difference between a 5 day manicure and a 14 day manicure.

Long-Term Satisfaction Tips & Tricks:
  • Clients should be using Nourish Cuticle Oil daily. This will help moisturize their natural nails and retain their flexible nature. It will also help maintain the flexible feeling of Gelish.
  • When applying Nourish Cuticle Oil, apply it to the top of the nail, plus underneath the free edge. After applying, massage the oil into the nail and cuticle. Advise your clients to do the same.
  • If your clients’ natural nails are overly dry, try a warm Nourish Cuticle Oil soak. Use an oil warmer or place small bowl of Nourish Cuticle Oil in a larger bowl of warm water. Put just enough Nourish oil to cover the tips of the fingers. Soak for 5 min after application of Gelish.
  • Immediately after Gelish removal, wash the client’s hand with plenty of water using mild soap. Strong soap or detergents are also sources of dehydration.

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